[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":375},["ShallowReactive",2],{"species-sheet-\u002Fes\u002Fspecies\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus":3},{"species":4,"profile":250,"countryNames":290,"lookalikes":293,"similar":296,"posts":354},{"id":5,"authority":6,"colonyStructure":7,"confidence":8,"countries":11,"defense":14,"diet":17,"difficulty":20,"dryHumidity":21,"escapeRisk":10,"estimated":22,"experience":29,"extension":30,"finder":31,"founding":32,"growth":33,"guide":21,"hibernation":34,"hibernationMonths":21,"hibernationTemperature":21,"humidity":35,"image":38,"imageCredit":39,"imageHeight":43,"imageWidth":44,"interests":21,"keptSince":21,"legal":45,"lookalikes":48,"majorSize":51,"maxWorkers":52,"meta":53,"nests":54,"nuptialFlightMonths":58,"nuptialFlightTime":60,"nuptialFlightTriggers":61,"polymorphism":63,"queenSize":64,"regions":67,"relatedPosts":69,"reviewedAt":47,"scientificName":73,"sources":74,"stem":233,"subfamily":234,"temperature":235,"tribe":238,"workerSize":239,"__hash__":242,"slug":243,"genus":244,"nickname":245,"aliases":246,"tagline":249},"species\u002Fspecies\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus.yml","Wesmael, 1838","monogyne",{"biology":9,"husbandry":10,"nuptialFlight":10},"high","medium",[12,13],"US","MX",[15,16],"bite","acid",[18,19],"sugar","insects","6",null,[23,24,25,26,27,28],"temperature","humidity","nuptialFlightMonths","workerSize","queenSize","maxWorkers","compiled","yml",false,"claustral","fast","none",[36,37],40,60,"https:\u002F\u002Fcdn.brumaants.com\u002Fimages\u002Fspecies\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus.jpg",{"author":40,"license":41,"url":42},"Jake Nitta (froggy143)","CC BY 4.0","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.inaturalist.org\u002Fobservations\u002F84624805",800,1200,{"status":46,"checked":47},"free","2026-10-11",[49,50],"Myrmecocystus testaceus","Myrmecocystus navajo",9,5000,{},[55,56,57],"ytong","naturalistic","acrylic",[59,51],7,"evening",[62],"rain","polymorphic",[65,66],12,15,[68],"northAmerica",[70,71,72],"how-to-make-a-ytong-nest","is-sugar-bad-for-ants-the-ant-pod","the-best-conditions-to-keep-ants-the-ant-pod","Myrmecocystus mexicanus",[75,82,88,92,96,101,105,109,113,117,123,127,131,135,139,143,147,151,155,159,163,167,171,176,180,184,188,192,196,200,204,208,212,217,221,225,229],{"type":76,"title":77,"url":78,"covers":79},"paper","Conway (1990), Journal of the New York Entomological Society 98: Notes on repletes, myrmecophiles, and predators of honey ant nests (Myrmecocystus mexicanus) in Arizona (one wingless queen per nest, replete sizes and colors, nest depth, winged queens and males in summer nests, replete formation in laboratory colonies)","https:\u002F\u002Farchive.org\u002Fdetails\u002Fbiostor-172151",[80,81],"biology","nuptialFlight",{"type":76,"title":83,"url":84,"covers":85},"Snelling (1976), Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County Science Bulletin 24: A revision of the honey ants, genus Myrmecocystus (type species and best studied honey ant: polymorphic workers, worker and queen measurements, range from central Mexico to Colorado and California, flights in the summer rains of Arizona, New Mexico and Colorado and after the first fall rains in southern California, alates in nests from June to September, a scavenger more than a hunter)","https:\u002F\u002Farchive.org\u002Fdetails\u002Fants_02724",[86,80,87,81],"taxonomy","distribution",{"type":76,"title":89,"url":90,"covers":91},"Conway (1986), The American Biology Teacher 48: The biology of honey ants (review of the Colorado studies: queen founding in a sealed chamber, evening flights in late July after heavy rain, typical colony of about 5000 with about a quarter repletes)","https:\u002F\u002Fgwern.net\u002Fdoc\u002Fbiology\u002F1986-conway.pdf",[80,81],{"type":76,"title":93,"url":94,"covers":95},"Wheeler (1908), Bulletin of the American Museum of Natural History 24: Honey ants, with a revision of the American Myrmecocysti (Colorado form, now the same species: workers 4.5 to 9 mm, females 10 to 11 mm in preserved specimens, long slender legs)","https:\u002F\u002Farchive.org\u002Fdetails\u002Fants_03275",[86,80],{"type":97,"title":98,"url":99,"covers":100},"reference","Wikipedia: Myrmecocystus mexicanus (summary of the Conway studies: flights in late July after rain, queen founding, typical colony size, colony lifespan, diet)","https:\u002F\u002Fen.wikipedia.org\u002Fwiki\u002FMyrmecocystus_mexicanus",[86,80,87,81],{"type":97,"title":102,"url":103,"covers":104},"NavajoNature.org: Myrmecocystus mexicanus (Lubertazzi and Alpert, after Snelling 1976: range, nest, solitary night foraging, scavenging, poorly documented nuptial flights)","https:\u002F\u002Fnavajonature.org\u002Fants\u002Fformicinae\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus.html",[86,80,87,81],{"type":97,"title":106,"url":107,"covers":108},"AntWiki: Myrmecocystus mexicanus (Snelling 1976 diagnosis and worker measurements, the best studied honey ant)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.antwiki.org\u002Fwiki\u002FMyrmecocystus_mexicanus",[86,80,87],{"type":97,"title":110,"url":111,"covers":112},"Catalogue of Life: Myrmecocystus mexicanus Wesmael, 1838 (AntCat classification: Formicinae, Lasiini)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.catalogueoflife.org\u002Fdata\u002Ftaxon\u002F6RTDF",[86],{"type":97,"title":114,"url":115,"covers":116},"GBIF: Myrmecocystus mexicanus Wesmael, 1838, occurrence records by country (United States and Mexico)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gbif.org\u002Fspecies\u002F1316753",[86,87],{"type":118,"title":119,"url":120,"covers":121},"careSheet","Antstore: Myrmecocystus mexicanus (honeypot ants, claustral and monogyne, nest 28 to 35 degrees C with 50 to 70% humidity, arena drier, soil nests, winter rest advised at 5 to 8 degrees C)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.antstore.net\u002Fshop\u002Fen\u002Fants\u002FAnts-from-America\u002FMyrmecocystus-mexicanus-Honeypot-ants-4989.html",[122,80],"husbandry",{"type":118,"title":124,"url":125,"covers":126},"FormicaMarket: Myrmecocystus mexicanus care guide (nest 22 to 30 degrees C, humidity gradient from dry to about 60%, flights June to August, winter dormancy advised at about 15 degrees C)","https:\u002F\u002Fformicamarket.com\u002Fen\u002Fant-database\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus\u002F",[122,80,81],{"type":118,"title":128,"url":129,"covers":130},"Ant Shack: Myrmecocystus mexicanus care sheet (temperature gradient, humid brood spot, sensitivity to light and vibration, replete behavior)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ant-shack.com\u002Fpages\u002Fencyclopedia-entry\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus",[122,80],{"type":118,"title":132,"url":133,"covers":134},"Ants R Us: Myrmecocystus mexicanus (golden honey pot ant, diet, colony size, advanced level, 6 to 8 week diapause advised in November)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.antsrus.com\u002Fproduct-page\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus-golden-honey-pot-ant",[122],{"type":118,"title":136,"url":137,"covers":138},"AntsHQ: Myrmecocystus mexicanus (golden honey pot ant, nest 27 to 30 degrees C and outworld warmer, humidity 65 to 80%, founding with a PVA bung, mild winter rest advised after the first year)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.antshq.co.uk\u002Fproduct-page\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus-golden-honey-pot-ant",[122],{"type":118,"title":140,"url":141,"covers":142},"Ameisenhaltung.de: Artenverzeichnis, Myrmecocystus mexicanus (mostly nocturnal, claustral, monogyne)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ameisenhaltung.de\u002Fartenverzeichnis\u002Fentry\u002F257-myrmecocystus-mexicanus\u002F",[122,80],{"type":118,"title":144,"url":145,"covers":146},"Buckeye Myrmecology: Myrmecocystus mexicanus (must be kept warm, no hibernation, AAC or plaster nests with grip for the ceiling, scavenges dead harvester ants)","https:\u002F\u002Fbuckeyemyrmecology.com\u002Fproduct\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus\u002F",[122,80],{"type":118,"title":148,"url":149,"covers":150},"AntGear: Large Mexican Honeypots (Myrmecocystus mexicanus), warm year-round, no hibernation, fragile repletes","https:\u002F\u002Fantgear.com\u002Fproduct\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus\u002F",[122],{"type":118,"title":152,"url":153,"covers":154},"Stateside Ants: Large Golden Honeypot Ant (kept heated, never in a fridge, growth within the first year)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.statesideants.com\u002Fproduct-page\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus",[122],{"type":118,"title":156,"url":157,"covers":158},"AntScout: Myrmecocystus mexicanus (warm and dry nest with a gradient, deep nests, nocturnal, escape risk)","https:\u002F\u002Fantscout.com\u002Fspecies\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus",[122],{"type":118,"title":160,"url":161,"covers":162},"Mrowson (Polish shop): Myrmecocystus mexicanus (day and night temperature, dry nest with a humid spot, no classic hibernation)","https:\u002F\u002Fmrowson.pl\u002Fen\u002Fproduct\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus\u002F",[122],{"type":118,"title":164,"url":165,"covers":166},"AntOnTop: Myrmecocystus mexicanus (nest 24 to 28 degrees C and arena 26 to 32, nest humidity 35 to 50%, no hibernation needed, no sting and a mild bite, intermediate level)","https:\u002F\u002Fantontop.com\u002Fants\u002Fexotic-ants\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus\u002F",[122],{"type":118,"title":168,"url":169,"covers":170},"AntKeeping.info: Myrmecocystus mexicanus (nuptial flights in July and August)","https:\u002F\u002Fantkeeping.info\u002Fants\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus\u002F",[81],{"type":172,"title":173,"url":174,"covers":175},"forum","Formiculture: Picture timeline journal of a Myrmecocystus mexicanus colony (UtahAnts, heated year-round, from about 25 to about 1000 workers in 13 months, replete formation, moving a colony by hand)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.formiculture.com\u002Ftopic\u002F20214-picture-timeline-journal-of-a-myrmecocystus-mexicanus-colony",[122,80],{"type":172,"title":177,"url":178,"covers":179},"Formiculture: Katla Myrmecocystus mexicanus journal (dirt tank, heat spot, queen overheated by a lamp, fermenting sugar water, condensation)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.formiculture.com\u002Ftopic\u002F19255-katlas-myrmecocystus-mexicanus\u002F",[122],{"type":172,"title":181,"url":182,"covers":183},"Formiculture: Greg Myrmecocystus mexicanus journal (founding colonies kept in test tubes with sand in constant dark and checked only about six times, most queens raised workers)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.formiculture.com\u002Ftopic\u002F437-gregs-myrmecocystus-mexicanus-journal-discontinued\u002F",[122],{"type":172,"title":185,"url":186,"covers":187},"Formiculture: Myrmecocystus mexicanus question (most keepers say no hibernation is needed, founding queens often die, mini hearths)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.formiculture.com\u002Ftopic\u002F14934-myrmecocystus-mexicanus-question-honeypot-ant\u002F",[122],{"type":172,"title":189,"url":190,"covers":191},"Formiculture: Myrmecocystus mexicanus advice thread of 2024 (keep at least 80 degrees F, sugar and protein, flat nests need grip, colony must be moved by force)","https:\u002F\u002Fformiculture.com\u002Ftopic\u002F21584-myrmecocystus-mexicanus",[122],{"type":172,"title":193,"url":194,"covers":195},"Formiculture: Myrmecocystus mexicanus thread of 2017 (fully claustral, humidity gradient, founding failures)","https:\u002F\u002Fformiculture.com\u002Ftopic\u002F7596-myrmecocystus-mexicanus",[122],{"type":172,"title":197,"url":198,"covers":199},"Formiculture: The road to success with Myrmecocystus (room temperature to 82 degrees F, colonies at room temperature slow down in winter, moist zone for repletes, many colonies fail after the first workers)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.formiculture.com\u002Ftopic\u002F6506-the-road-to-success-with-myrmecocystus\u002F",[122,80],{"type":172,"title":201,"url":202,"covers":203},"Formiculture: Myrmecocystus journal (colony in an unheated room practically inactive in winter and active again in spring, fluon fails on silicone joints, test tubes work poorly for this genus)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.formiculture.com\u002Ftopic\u002F164-myrmecocystus-journal\u002F",[122],{"type":172,"title":205,"url":206,"covers":207},"Formiculture: dspdrew Myrmecocystus mexicanus journal (queens from a mating flight on 21 August 2013)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.formiculture.com\u002Ftopic\u002F162-dspdrews-myrmecocystus-mexicanus-journal-124-updated-2-4-2024\u002F",[81],{"type":172,"title":209,"url":210,"covers":211},"Formiculture: Myrmecocystus testaceax worker and queen ID (Snelling key: mexicanus queens have a head width of 1.90 mm or more, testaceus queens less than 1.85 mm)","https:\u002F\u002Fformiculture.com\u002Ftopic\u002F18330-myrmecocystus-sp-testaceax-worker-and-queen-id-socal-late-april-collection",[86],{"type":97,"title":213,"url":214,"covers":215},"EU list of invasive alien species of Union concern (Implementing Regulation 2016\u002F1141, consolidated)","https:\u002F\u002Feur-lex.europa.eu\u002Feli\u002Freg_impl\u002F2016\u002F1141\u002Foj",[216],"legal",{"type":97,"title":218,"url":219,"covers":220},"Wikipedia: List of invasive alien species of Union concern (the listed ants are Brachyponera chinensis, Solenopsis geminata, invicta and richteri, and Wasmannia auropunctata)","https:\u002F\u002Fen.wikipedia.org\u002Fwiki\u002FList_of_invasive_alien_species_of_Union_concern",[216],{"type":97,"title":222,"url":223,"covers":224},"MITECO: Spanish Catalogue of Invasive Alien Species, arthropods (no Myrmecocystus)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.miteco.gob.es\u002Fes\u002Fbiodiversidad\u002Ftemas\u002Fconservacion-de-especies\u002Fespecies-exoticas-invasoras\u002Fce_eei_artropodos_nc.html",[216],{"type":97,"title":226,"url":227,"covers":228},"Bundesartenschutzverordnung (BArtSchV), Anlage 1: protected species in Germany (no Myrmecocystus)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gesetze-im-internet.de\u002Fbartschv_2005\u002Fanlage_1.html",[216],{"type":97,"title":230,"url":231,"covers":232},"Japan Ministry of the Environment: designated invasive alien species under the Invasive Alien Species Act (no Myrmecocystus)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.env.go.jp\u002Fnature\u002Fintro\u002F2outline\u002Flist.html",[216],"species\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus","Formicinae",[236,237],26,30,"Lasiini",[240,241],4,8,"tyKV7NIn7NWDXcG8z7Liw0hZVj2Ob9TafCb0xuAU0NQ","myrmecocystus-mexicanus","Myrmecocystus","Hormiga mielera mexicana",[247,248],"Hormiga de miel","Hormiga mielera","Una hormiga nocturna del desierto cuyas obreras hinchadas cuelgan del techo como tarros dorados para guardar el azúcar de la colonia.",{"id":251,"title":252,"aliases":246,"body":253,"description":257,"extension":260,"faqs":261,"identification":271,"language":272,"meta":273,"navigation":274,"nickname":245,"notes":275,"path":286,"seo":287,"stem":288,"tagline":249,"__hash__":289},"speciesProfiles\u002Fes\u002Fspecies\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus.md","Myrmecocystus Mexicanus",{"type":254,"value":255,"toc":256},"minimark",[],{"title":257,"searchDepth":258,"depth":258,"links":259},"",2,[],"md",[262,265,268],{"question":263,"answer":264},"¿Qué son las hormigas hinchadas de un nido de hormigas mieleras y cuánto tardará mi colonia en tenerlas?","Son las repletas: obreras cuyo abdomen se ha estirado por el alimento líquido que las forrajeadoras les pasan de boca a boca. Incapaces de caminar, cuelgan del techo de las cámaras profundas como la despensa de la colonia, y en épocas de escasez otras obreras las golpetean con las antenas para recibir alimento. En un nido silvestre de Arizona, los abdómenes hinchados medían de 6 a 12 mm, y su color mostraba lo que contenían: ámbar para los azúcares, lechoso para la proteína y el aceite de las presas de insectos, transparente para lo que era sobre todo agua. En colonias de laboratorio, las obreras parcialmente hinchadas aparecieron tras unos 50 días de media y las repletas totalmente hinchadas tras unos 77 días con agua azucarada, pero el intervalo fue amplio, de dos semanas a más de siete meses. Un criador con experiencia cuenta que las primeras repletas de verdad solo aparecieron con la segunda o la tercera generación de obreras, así que ten paciencia y mantén el flujo de azúcar.",{"question":266,"answer":267},"¿Qué comen las hormigas mieleras en la naturaleza?","Sobre todo líquidos dulces e insectos muertos. Las obreras forrajean solas, principalmente de noche, y recogen néctar de flores y de frutos de cactus, melaza de pulgones y de cochinillas algodonosas, y jugo azucarado de agallas de roble. Su proteína procede en gran parte de artrópodos muertos o moribundos, y en un estudio 110 de los 145 alimentos recogidos eran hormigas cosechadoras muertas de la especie Pogonomyrmex occidentalis. Rara vez cazan presas vivas, y por eso los pequeños insectos ya muertos les convienen en cautividad.",{"question":269,"answer":270},"¿Por qué tantas reinas de hormiga mielera fracasan al fundar una colonia?","Una reina funda sola, sellada en una cámara y viviendo de sus reservas corporales, y en cautividad sus primeras obreras aparecieron unos dos meses después de poner los huevos. Muchos criadores pierden a la mayoría de sus reinas fundadoras, y los criadores de varias especies de hormigas mieleras también pierden colonias más tarde: se habla de reinas que mueren con entre 30 y 70 obreras, normalmente después de que empezaran a morir las repletas, y otro criador espera que solo una de cada cuatro colonias salga adelante. Nadie ha determinado la causa. Los relatos más alentadores mantuvieron a las reinas a oscuras y casi sin molestarlas, y varios criadores comprobaron que las reinas a las que se dio arena o tierra para excavar rindieron mejor que las alojadas en tubos de ensayo sin sustrato.","Obreras de un amarillo pálido a pardo claro, de patas largas, ojos grandes y la cabeza algo más oscura, de muchos tamaños y activas sobre todo de noche, cada una forrajeando sola. Las hormigas repletas de color ámbar que cuelgan en el nido caracterizan al género, pero distinguir esta especie de otras parecidas, como Myrmecocystus testaceus, requiere un microscopio, y las reinas que llegan a los aficionados se capturan después de vuelos en libertad, así que el nombre depende de la identificación del recolector.","es",{},true,[276,279,281,284],{"kind":277,"text":278},"watchOut","Dale a las repletas un techo rugoso y sólido del que colgarse, como yeso, Ytong o una superficie revestida, porque el cristal y el plástico lisos ofrecen un mal agarre y una repleta que se cae puede no volver a subir. Mantén el nido en un lugar tranquilo, ya que las vibraciones y la luz intensa inquietan a la colonia.",{"kind":277,"text":280},"Las repletas no pueden caminar, así que la colonia no se mudará sola a un nido más grande: cuenta con trasladar a las hormigas a mano, repletas incluidas, y hazlo lo menos posible, porque las repletas que se quedan atrás se pierden con facilidad.",{"kind":282,"text":283},"tip","Calienta solo una parte del nido para que las hormigas puedan elegir su lugar, y prueba con cuidado cualquier calefactor nuevo: en un diario de cría una reina quedó abrasada por una lámpara. Después mantén estables la temperatura, la humedad y la comida, porque un criador con experiencia advierte que una colonia puede hundirse tan rápido como crece.",{"kind":282,"text":285},"Ofrece azúcar pronto y a menudo, y alterna las fuentes (agua con miel, néctar para hormigas, sirope de arce): las repletas solo se llenan cuando el azúcar fluye de forma constante, y el agua azucarada que haya empezado a fermentar debe sustituirse. Da la proteína en forma de pequeños insectos ya muertos, porque estas hormigas carroñean más de lo que cazan.","\u002Fes\u002Fspecies\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus",{"description":257},"es\u002Fspecies\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus","SG93sxXNJNmkqHv_16du08QPdm8f4p-_gCapIf6_AlQ",[291,292],"Estados Unidos","México",[294,295],{"name":49,"slug":21},{"name":50,"slug":21},[297,315,339],{"slug":298,"scientificName":299,"genus":300,"nickname":257,"aliases":301,"tagline":302,"image":303,"experience":29,"guide":21,"difficulty":304,"workerSize":305,"majorSize":21,"queenSize":307,"temperature":308,"hibernation":34,"hibernationTemperature":21,"hibernationBand":34,"sizeClass":10,"founding":310,"colonyStructure":311,"regions":312},"polyrhachis-dives","Polyrhachis dives","Polyrhachis",[],"Una trepadora espinosa y veloz que teje sus nidos con la seda de sus propias larvas y vive en colonias con muchas reinas.","https:\u002F\u002Fcdn.brumaants.com\u002Fimages\u002Fspecies\u002Fpolyrhachis-dives.jpg","5",[306,241],5,[51,65],[309,237],25,"semiClaustral","polygyne",[313,314],"asia","oceania",{"slug":316,"scientificName":317,"genus":318,"nickname":319,"aliases":320,"tagline":324,"image":325,"experience":326,"guide":327,"difficulty":20,"workerSize":328,"majorSize":21,"queenSize":330,"temperature":331,"hibernation":333,"hibernationTemperature":334,"hibernationBand":335,"sizeClass":10,"founding":32,"colonyStructure":7,"regions":336},"crematogaster-scutellaris","Crematogaster scutellaris","Crematogaster","Hormiga acróbata",[321,322,323],"Hormiga de los alcornoques","Morito","Fraile","Levanta su gáster en forma de corazón cuando se la molesta y le encanta anidar en la madera.","https:\u002F\u002Fcdn.brumaants.com\u002Fimages\u002FCrematogaster_scutellaris_worker_1.jpeg","firstHand","how-to-care-for-crematogaster-scutellaris",[329,306],3,[59,51],[332,309],21,"required",[241,65],"cool",[337,338],"europe","northAfrica",{"slug":340,"scientificName":341,"genus":342,"nickname":257,"aliases":343,"tagline":344,"image":345,"experience":29,"guide":21,"difficulty":346,"workerSize":347,"majorSize":66,"queenSize":348,"temperature":350,"hibernation":34,"hibernationTemperature":21,"hibernationBand":34,"sizeClass":351,"founding":32,"colonyStructure":352,"regions":353},"carebara-diversa","Carebara diversa","Carebara",[],"Una merodeadora que ataca en grupo, cuyas columnas de obreras diminutas y mayores de cabeza gigante parecen hormigas legionarias, con las obreras más pequeñas viajando a cuestas de las más grandes.","https:\u002F\u002Fcdn.brumaants.com\u002Fimages\u002Fspecies\u002Fcarebara-diversa.jpg","7",[258,51],[349,309],19,[236,237],"large","facultative",[313],[355,362,369],{"id":356,"title":357,"description":358,"image":359,"categoryText":360,"path":361},"blog\u002Fes\u002Fhow-to-make-a-ytong-nest.md","Cómo hacer un nido de Ytong - Tutorial de cría de hormigas","¡En este tutorial aprenderás a hacer un nido de Ytong para tus colonias de hormigas! ¡Es uno de los mejores tipos de nido para muchas especies de hormigas!","https:\u002F\u002Fcdn.brumaants.com\u002Fimages\u002Fbruma_ants_thumbnail_ytong_ant_nest_tutorial.png","Tutoriales","\u002Fes\u002Fhow-to-make-a-ytong-nest",{"id":363,"title":364,"description":365,"image":366,"categoryText":367,"path":368},"blog\u002Fes\u002Fis-sugar-bad-for-ants-the-ant-pod.md","¿Es malo el azúcar para las hormigas? - The Ant Pod","¿Puede el exceso de azúcar dañar a una colonia? Jake y Lynn comparan sus colonias de Camponotus y explican por qué menos azúcar y más proteína podría ser mejor.","https:\u002F\u002Fcdn.brumaants.com\u002Fimages\u002Fthe_ant_pod_is_sugar_bad_for_ants.jpg","Podcasts","\u002Fes\u002Fis-sugar-bad-for-ants-the-ant-pod",{"id":370,"title":371,"description":372,"image":373,"categoryText":367,"path":374},"blog\u002Fes\u002Fthe-best-conditions-to-keep-ants-the-ant-pod.md","Las mejores condiciones para criar hormigas - The Ant Pod","Temperatura, humedad y plagas: mantas térmicas, sistemas de hidratación, cómo detectar y controlar ácaros y por qué el mejor montaje imita el hábitat natural.","https:\u002F\u002Fcdn.brumaants.com\u002Fimages\u002Fthe_ant_pod_30_the_best_conditions_to_keep_ants.jpg","\u002Fes\u002Fthe-best-conditions-to-keep-ants-the-ant-pod",1791900236763]