[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":372},["ShallowReactive",2],{"species-sheet-\u002Ffr\u002Fspecies\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus":3},{"species":4,"profile":248,"countryNames":288,"lookalikes":291,"similar":294,"posts":351},{"id":5,"authority":6,"colonyStructure":7,"confidence":8,"countries":11,"defense":14,"diet":17,"difficulty":20,"dryHumidity":21,"escapeRisk":10,"estimated":22,"experience":29,"extension":30,"finder":31,"founding":32,"growth":33,"guide":21,"hibernation":34,"hibernationMonths":21,"hibernationTemperature":21,"humidity":35,"image":38,"imageCredit":39,"imageHeight":43,"imageWidth":44,"interests":21,"keptSince":21,"legal":45,"lookalikes":48,"majorSize":51,"maxWorkers":52,"meta":53,"nests":54,"nuptialFlightMonths":58,"nuptialFlightTime":60,"nuptialFlightTriggers":61,"polymorphism":63,"queenSize":64,"regions":67,"relatedPosts":69,"reviewedAt":47,"scientificName":73,"sources":74,"stem":233,"subfamily":234,"temperature":235,"tribe":238,"workerSize":239,"__hash__":242,"slug":243,"genus":244,"nickname":245,"aliases":246,"tagline":247},"species\u002Fspecies\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus.yml","Wesmael, 1838","monogyne",{"biology":9,"husbandry":10,"nuptialFlight":10},"high","medium",[12,13],"US","MX",[15,16],"bite","acid",[18,19],"sugar","insects","6",null,[23,24,25,26,27,28],"temperature","humidity","nuptialFlightMonths","workerSize","queenSize","maxWorkers","compiled","yml",false,"claustral","fast","none",[36,37],40,60,"https:\u002F\u002Fcdn.brumaants.com\u002Fimages\u002Fspecies\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus.jpg",{"author":40,"license":41,"url":42},"Jake Nitta (froggy143)","CC BY 4.0","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.inaturalist.org\u002Fobservations\u002F84624805",800,1200,{"status":46,"checked":47},"free","2026-10-11",[49,50],"Myrmecocystus testaceus","Myrmecocystus navajo",9,5000,{},[55,56,57],"ytong","naturalistic","acrylic",[59,51],7,"evening",[62],"rain","polymorphic",[65,66],12,15,[68],"northAmerica",[70,71,72],"how-to-make-a-ytong-nest","is-sugar-bad-for-ants-the-ant-pod","the-best-conditions-to-keep-ants-the-ant-pod","Myrmecocystus mexicanus",[75,82,88,92,96,101,105,109,113,117,123,127,131,135,139,143,147,151,155,159,163,167,171,176,180,184,188,192,196,200,204,208,212,217,221,225,229],{"type":76,"title":77,"url":78,"covers":79},"paper","Conway (1990), Journal of the New York Entomological Society 98: Notes on repletes, myrmecophiles, and predators of honey ant nests (Myrmecocystus mexicanus) in Arizona (one wingless queen per nest, replete sizes and colors, nest depth, winged queens and males in summer nests, replete formation in laboratory colonies)","https:\u002F\u002Farchive.org\u002Fdetails\u002Fbiostor-172151",[80,81],"biology","nuptialFlight",{"type":76,"title":83,"url":84,"covers":85},"Snelling (1976), Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County Science Bulletin 24: A revision of the honey ants, genus Myrmecocystus (type species and best studied honey ant: polymorphic workers, worker and queen measurements, range from central Mexico to Colorado and California, flights in the summer rains of Arizona, New Mexico and Colorado and after the first fall rains in southern California, alates in nests from June to September, a scavenger more than a hunter)","https:\u002F\u002Farchive.org\u002Fdetails\u002Fants_02724",[86,80,87,81],"taxonomy","distribution",{"type":76,"title":89,"url":90,"covers":91},"Conway (1986), The American Biology Teacher 48: The biology of honey ants (review of the Colorado studies: queen founding in a sealed chamber, evening flights in late July after heavy rain, typical colony of about 5000 with about a quarter repletes)","https:\u002F\u002Fgwern.net\u002Fdoc\u002Fbiology\u002F1986-conway.pdf",[80,81],{"type":76,"title":93,"url":94,"covers":95},"Wheeler (1908), Bulletin of the American Museum of Natural History 24: Honey ants, with a revision of the American Myrmecocysti (Colorado form, now the same species: workers 4.5 to 9 mm, females 10 to 11 mm in preserved specimens, long slender legs)","https:\u002F\u002Farchive.org\u002Fdetails\u002Fants_03275",[86,80],{"type":97,"title":98,"url":99,"covers":100},"reference","Wikipedia: Myrmecocystus mexicanus (summary of the Conway studies: flights in late July after rain, queen founding, typical colony size, colony lifespan, diet)","https:\u002F\u002Fen.wikipedia.org\u002Fwiki\u002FMyrmecocystus_mexicanus",[86,80,87,81],{"type":97,"title":102,"url":103,"covers":104},"NavajoNature.org: Myrmecocystus mexicanus (Lubertazzi and Alpert, after Snelling 1976: range, nest, solitary night foraging, scavenging, poorly documented nuptial flights)","https:\u002F\u002Fnavajonature.org\u002Fants\u002Fformicinae\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus.html",[86,80,87,81],{"type":97,"title":106,"url":107,"covers":108},"AntWiki: Myrmecocystus mexicanus (Snelling 1976 diagnosis and worker measurements, the best studied honey ant)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.antwiki.org\u002Fwiki\u002FMyrmecocystus_mexicanus",[86,80,87],{"type":97,"title":110,"url":111,"covers":112},"Catalogue of Life: Myrmecocystus mexicanus Wesmael, 1838 (AntCat classification: Formicinae, Lasiini)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.catalogueoflife.org\u002Fdata\u002Ftaxon\u002F6RTDF",[86],{"type":97,"title":114,"url":115,"covers":116},"GBIF: Myrmecocystus mexicanus Wesmael, 1838, occurrence records by country (United States and Mexico)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gbif.org\u002Fspecies\u002F1316753",[86,87],{"type":118,"title":119,"url":120,"covers":121},"careSheet","Antstore: Myrmecocystus mexicanus (honeypot ants, claustral and monogyne, nest 28 to 35 degrees C with 50 to 70% humidity, arena drier, soil nests, winter rest advised at 5 to 8 degrees C)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.antstore.net\u002Fshop\u002Fen\u002Fants\u002FAnts-from-America\u002FMyrmecocystus-mexicanus-Honeypot-ants-4989.html",[122,80],"husbandry",{"type":118,"title":124,"url":125,"covers":126},"FormicaMarket: Myrmecocystus mexicanus care guide (nest 22 to 30 degrees C, humidity gradient from dry to about 60%, flights June to August, winter dormancy advised at about 15 degrees C)","https:\u002F\u002Fformicamarket.com\u002Fen\u002Fant-database\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus\u002F",[122,80,81],{"type":118,"title":128,"url":129,"covers":130},"Ant Shack: Myrmecocystus mexicanus care sheet (temperature gradient, humid brood spot, sensitivity to light and vibration, replete behavior)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ant-shack.com\u002Fpages\u002Fencyclopedia-entry\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus",[122,80],{"type":118,"title":132,"url":133,"covers":134},"Ants R Us: Myrmecocystus mexicanus (golden honey pot ant, diet, colony size, advanced level, 6 to 8 week diapause advised in November)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.antsrus.com\u002Fproduct-page\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus-golden-honey-pot-ant",[122],{"type":118,"title":136,"url":137,"covers":138},"AntsHQ: Myrmecocystus mexicanus (golden honey pot ant, nest 27 to 30 degrees C and outworld warmer, humidity 65 to 80%, founding with a PVA bung, mild winter rest advised after the first year)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.antshq.co.uk\u002Fproduct-page\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus-golden-honey-pot-ant",[122],{"type":118,"title":140,"url":141,"covers":142},"Ameisenhaltung.de: Artenverzeichnis, Myrmecocystus mexicanus (mostly nocturnal, claustral, monogyne)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.ameisenhaltung.de\u002Fartenverzeichnis\u002Fentry\u002F257-myrmecocystus-mexicanus\u002F",[122,80],{"type":118,"title":144,"url":145,"covers":146},"Buckeye Myrmecology: Myrmecocystus mexicanus (must be kept warm, no hibernation, AAC or plaster nests with grip for the ceiling, scavenges dead harvester ants)","https:\u002F\u002Fbuckeyemyrmecology.com\u002Fproduct\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus\u002F",[122,80],{"type":118,"title":148,"url":149,"covers":150},"AntGear: Large Mexican Honeypots (Myrmecocystus mexicanus), warm year-round, no hibernation, fragile repletes","https:\u002F\u002Fantgear.com\u002Fproduct\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus\u002F",[122],{"type":118,"title":152,"url":153,"covers":154},"Stateside Ants: Large Golden Honeypot Ant (kept heated, never in a fridge, growth within the first year)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.statesideants.com\u002Fproduct-page\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus",[122],{"type":118,"title":156,"url":157,"covers":158},"AntScout: Myrmecocystus mexicanus (warm and dry nest with a gradient, deep nests, nocturnal, escape risk)","https:\u002F\u002Fantscout.com\u002Fspecies\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus",[122],{"type":118,"title":160,"url":161,"covers":162},"Mrowson (Polish shop): Myrmecocystus mexicanus (day and night temperature, dry nest with a humid spot, no classic hibernation)","https:\u002F\u002Fmrowson.pl\u002Fen\u002Fproduct\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus\u002F",[122],{"type":118,"title":164,"url":165,"covers":166},"AntOnTop: Myrmecocystus mexicanus (nest 24 to 28 degrees C and arena 26 to 32, nest humidity 35 to 50%, no hibernation needed, no sting and a mild bite, intermediate level)","https:\u002F\u002Fantontop.com\u002Fants\u002Fexotic-ants\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus\u002F",[122],{"type":118,"title":168,"url":169,"covers":170},"AntKeeping.info: Myrmecocystus mexicanus (nuptial flights in July and August)","https:\u002F\u002Fantkeeping.info\u002Fants\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus\u002F",[81],{"type":172,"title":173,"url":174,"covers":175},"forum","Formiculture: Picture timeline journal of a Myrmecocystus mexicanus colony (UtahAnts, heated year-round, from about 25 to about 1000 workers in 13 months, replete formation, moving a colony by hand)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.formiculture.com\u002Ftopic\u002F20214-picture-timeline-journal-of-a-myrmecocystus-mexicanus-colony",[122,80],{"type":172,"title":177,"url":178,"covers":179},"Formiculture: Katla Myrmecocystus mexicanus journal (dirt tank, heat spot, queen overheated by a lamp, fermenting sugar water, condensation)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.formiculture.com\u002Ftopic\u002F19255-katlas-myrmecocystus-mexicanus\u002F",[122],{"type":172,"title":181,"url":182,"covers":183},"Formiculture: Greg Myrmecocystus mexicanus journal (founding colonies kept in test tubes with sand in constant dark and checked only about six times, most queens raised workers)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.formiculture.com\u002Ftopic\u002F437-gregs-myrmecocystus-mexicanus-journal-discontinued\u002F",[122],{"type":172,"title":185,"url":186,"covers":187},"Formiculture: Myrmecocystus mexicanus question (most keepers say no hibernation is needed, founding queens often die, mini hearths)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.formiculture.com\u002Ftopic\u002F14934-myrmecocystus-mexicanus-question-honeypot-ant\u002F",[122],{"type":172,"title":189,"url":190,"covers":191},"Formiculture: Myrmecocystus mexicanus advice thread of 2024 (keep at least 80 degrees F, sugar and protein, flat nests need grip, colony must be moved by force)","https:\u002F\u002Fformiculture.com\u002Ftopic\u002F21584-myrmecocystus-mexicanus",[122],{"type":172,"title":193,"url":194,"covers":195},"Formiculture: Myrmecocystus mexicanus thread of 2017 (fully claustral, humidity gradient, founding failures)","https:\u002F\u002Fformiculture.com\u002Ftopic\u002F7596-myrmecocystus-mexicanus",[122],{"type":172,"title":197,"url":198,"covers":199},"Formiculture: The road to success with Myrmecocystus (room temperature to 82 degrees F, colonies at room temperature slow down in winter, moist zone for repletes, many colonies fail after the first workers)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.formiculture.com\u002Ftopic\u002F6506-the-road-to-success-with-myrmecocystus\u002F",[122,80],{"type":172,"title":201,"url":202,"covers":203},"Formiculture: Myrmecocystus journal (colony in an unheated room practically inactive in winter and active again in spring, fluon fails on silicone joints, test tubes work poorly for this genus)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.formiculture.com\u002Ftopic\u002F164-myrmecocystus-journal\u002F",[122],{"type":172,"title":205,"url":206,"covers":207},"Formiculture: dspdrew Myrmecocystus mexicanus journal (queens from a mating flight on 21 August 2013)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.formiculture.com\u002Ftopic\u002F162-dspdrews-myrmecocystus-mexicanus-journal-124-updated-2-4-2024\u002F",[81],{"type":172,"title":209,"url":210,"covers":211},"Formiculture: Myrmecocystus testaceax worker and queen ID (Snelling key: mexicanus queens have a head width of 1.90 mm or more, testaceus queens less than 1.85 mm)","https:\u002F\u002Fformiculture.com\u002Ftopic\u002F18330-myrmecocystus-sp-testaceax-worker-and-queen-id-socal-late-april-collection",[86],{"type":97,"title":213,"url":214,"covers":215},"EU list of invasive alien species of Union concern (Implementing Regulation 2016\u002F1141, consolidated)","https:\u002F\u002Feur-lex.europa.eu\u002Feli\u002Freg_impl\u002F2016\u002F1141\u002Foj",[216],"legal",{"type":97,"title":218,"url":219,"covers":220},"Wikipedia: List of invasive alien species of Union concern (the listed ants are Brachyponera chinensis, Solenopsis geminata, invicta and richteri, and Wasmannia auropunctata)","https:\u002F\u002Fen.wikipedia.org\u002Fwiki\u002FList_of_invasive_alien_species_of_Union_concern",[216],{"type":97,"title":222,"url":223,"covers":224},"MITECO: Spanish Catalogue of Invasive Alien Species, arthropods (no Myrmecocystus)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.miteco.gob.es\u002Fes\u002Fbiodiversidad\u002Ftemas\u002Fconservacion-de-especies\u002Fespecies-exoticas-invasoras\u002Fce_eei_artropodos_nc.html",[216],{"type":97,"title":226,"url":227,"covers":228},"Bundesartenschutzverordnung (BArtSchV), Anlage 1: protected species in Germany (no Myrmecocystus)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.gesetze-im-internet.de\u002Fbartschv_2005\u002Fanlage_1.html",[216],{"type":97,"title":230,"url":231,"covers":232},"Japan Ministry of the Environment: designated invasive alien species under the Invasive Alien Species Act (no Myrmecocystus)","https:\u002F\u002Fwww.env.go.jp\u002Fnature\u002Fintro\u002F2outline\u002Flist.html",[216],"species\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus","Formicinae",[236,237],26,30,"Lasiini",[240,241],4,8,"tyKV7NIn7NWDXcG8z7Liw0hZVj2Ob9TafCb0xuAU0NQ","myrmecocystus-mexicanus","Myrmecocystus","Fourmi pot-de-miel",[],"Une fourmi nocturne du désert, dont les ouvrières gonflées pendent au plafond comme des jarres dorées pour stocker le sucre de la colonie.",{"id":249,"title":250,"aliases":246,"body":251,"description":255,"extension":258,"faqs":259,"identification":269,"language":270,"meta":271,"navigation":272,"nickname":245,"notes":273,"path":284,"seo":285,"stem":286,"tagline":247,"__hash__":287},"speciesProfiles\u002Ffr\u002Fspecies\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus.md","Myrmecocystus Mexicanus",{"type":252,"value":253,"toc":254},"minimark",[],{"title":255,"searchDepth":256,"depth":256,"links":257},"",2,[],"md",[260,263,266],{"question":261,"answer":262},"Que sont les fourmis gonflées d'un nid de fourmis pot-de-miel, et au bout de combien de temps ma colonie en aura-t-elle ?","Ce sont des réplètes : des ouvrières dont l'abdomen est distendu par la nourriture liquide que les fourrageuses leur transmettent de bouche à bouche. Incapables de marcher, elles pendent au plafond des chambres profondes et servent de garde-manger à la colonie, et en période de disette, les autres ouvrières les sollicitent avec leurs antennes pour se faire nourrir. Dans un nid sauvage d'Arizona, les abdomens gonflés mesuraient de 6 à 12 mm, et leur couleur révélait ce qu'ils contenaient : ambrée pour les sucres, laiteuse pour les protéines et l'huile issues des insectes capturés, claire pour surtout de l'eau. Dans des colonies de laboratoire, des ouvrières partiellement gonflées sont apparues au bout d'environ 50 jours en moyenne, et des réplètes entièrement gonflées après environ 77 jours avec de l'eau sucrée, mais l'écart était large, de deux semaines à plus de sept mois. Un éleveur expérimenté rapporte que les premières vraies réplètes ne sont apparues qu'avec la deuxième ou la troisième génération d'ouvrières : patientez donc et maintenez l'apport de sucre.",{"question":264,"answer":265},"Que mangent les fourmis pot-de-miel dans la nature ?","Surtout des liquides sucrés et des insectes morts. Les ouvrières cherchent leur nourriture seules, surtout la nuit, en récoltant le nectar des fleurs et des fruits de cactus, le miellat des pucerons et des cochenilles farineuses, et le jus sucré des galles de chêne. Leurs protéines proviennent en grande partie d'arthropodes morts ou mourants, et dans une étude, 110 des 145 aliments récoltés étaient des fourmis moissonneuses mortes de l'espèce Pogonomyrmex occidentalis. Elles chassent rarement des proies vivantes, ce qui explique que de petits insectes déjà tués leur conviennent en captivité.",{"question":267,"answer":268},"Pourquoi tant de reines de fourmis pot-de-miel échouent-elles à fonder une colonie ?","Une reine fonde seule, enfermée dans une chambre et vivant de ses réserves corporelles, et en captivité, ses premières ouvrières sont apparues environ deux mois après la ponte des œufs. De nombreux éleveurs perdent la plupart de leurs reines fondatrices, et les éleveurs de plusieurs espèces de fourmis pot-de-miel perdent aussi des colonies plus tard : l'un parle de reines mortes lorsque la colonie comptait 30 à 70 ouvrières, en général après que des réplètes ont commencé à mourir, et un autre ne s'attend qu'à environ une colonie sur quatre qui y parvienne. Personne n'a identifié la cause. Les témoignages les plus encourageants gardaient les reines dans le noir et presque sans les déranger, et plusieurs éleveurs ont constaté que les reines à qui l'on donnait du sable ou de la terre pour creuser s'en sortaient mieux que celles placées dans des tubes à essai nus.","Des ouvrières jaune pâle à beige clair, aux longues pattes, aux grands yeux et à la tête un peu plus foncée, de tailles variées et surtout actives la nuit, chacune cherchant sa nourriture seule. Les réplètes ambrées suspendues dans le nid caractérisent le genre, mais distinguer cette espèce de sosies comme Myrmecocystus testaceus demande un microscope, et les reines vendues aux éleveurs sont capturées après des vols nuptiaux sauvages : le nom repose donc sur l'identification du collecteur.","fr",{},true,[274,277,279,282],{"kind":275,"text":276},"watchOut","Donnez aux réplètes un plafond rugueux et solide auquel s'accrocher, comme du plâtre, de l'Ytong ou une surface enduite, car le verre lisse et le plastique offrent une mauvaise prise et une réplète qui tombe risque de ne pas pouvoir remonter. Installez le nid dans un endroit calme, car les vibrations et la lumière vive perturbent la colonie.",{"kind":275,"text":278},"Les réplètes ne peuvent pas marcher : la colonie n'emménagera donc pas d'elle-même dans un nid plus grand. Attendez-vous à déplacer les fourmis à la main, réplètes comprises, et faites-le aussi rarement que possible, car les réplètes laissées derrière sont facilement perdues.",{"kind":280,"text":281},"tip","Ne chauffez qu'une partie du nid pour que les fourmis puissent choisir leur emplacement, et testez soigneusement tout nouveau chauffage : dans un journal d'élevage, une reine a été cuite par une lampe. Gardez ensuite la température, l'humidité et la nourriture stables, car un éleveur expérimenté prévient qu'une colonie peut s'effondrer aussi vite qu'elle croît.",{"kind":280,"text":283},"Proposez du sucre tôt et souvent, et variez les sources (eau miellée, nectar pour fourmis, sirop d'érable) : les réplètes ne se remplissent que si le sucre arrive régulièrement, et l'eau sucrée qui a commencé à fermenter doit être remplacée. Donnez les protéines sous forme de petits insectes déjà tués, car ces fourmis ramassent des proies mortes plus qu'elles ne chassent.","\u002Ffr\u002Fspecies\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus",{"description":255},"fr\u002Fspecies\u002Fmyrmecocystus-mexicanus","E9-IwHl3VbfUVb9yn-iXSmige3d71Z5t06GlDgF-WI0",[289,290],"États-Unis","Mexique",[292,293],{"name":49,"slug":21},{"name":50,"slug":21},[295,313,336],{"slug":296,"scientificName":297,"genus":298,"nickname":255,"aliases":299,"tagline":300,"image":301,"experience":29,"guide":21,"difficulty":302,"workerSize":303,"majorSize":21,"queenSize":305,"temperature":306,"hibernation":34,"hibernationTemperature":21,"hibernationBand":34,"sizeClass":10,"founding":308,"colonyStructure":309,"regions":310},"polyrhachis-dives","Polyrhachis dives","Polyrhachis",[],"Une grimpeuse épineuse et rapide, qui tisse ses nids avec la soie de ses propres larves et vit en colonies à plusieurs reines.","https:\u002F\u002Fcdn.brumaants.com\u002Fimages\u002Fspecies\u002Fpolyrhachis-dives.jpg","5",[304,241],5,[51,65],[307,237],25,"semiClaustral","polygyne",[311,312],"asia","oceania",{"slug":314,"scientificName":315,"genus":316,"nickname":317,"aliases":318,"tagline":321,"image":322,"experience":323,"guide":324,"difficulty":20,"workerSize":325,"majorSize":21,"queenSize":327,"temperature":328,"hibernation":330,"hibernationTemperature":331,"hibernationBand":332,"sizeClass":10,"founding":32,"colonyStructure":7,"regions":333},"crematogaster-scutellaris","Crematogaster scutellaris","Crematogaster","Fourmi acrobate",[319,320],"Fourmi écussonnée","Fourmi scutellaire","Redresse son gaster en forme de cœur lorsqu'elle est dérangée et adore nicher dans le bois.","https:\u002F\u002Fcdn.brumaants.com\u002Fimages\u002FCrematogaster_scutellaris_worker_1.jpeg","firstHand","how-to-care-for-crematogaster-scutellaris",[326,304],3,[59,51],[329,307],21,"required",[241,65],"cool",[334,335],"europe","northAfrica",{"slug":337,"scientificName":338,"genus":339,"nickname":255,"aliases":340,"tagline":341,"image":342,"experience":29,"guide":21,"difficulty":343,"workerSize":344,"majorSize":66,"queenSize":345,"temperature":347,"hibernation":34,"hibernationTemperature":21,"hibernationBand":34,"sizeClass":348,"founding":32,"colonyStructure":349,"regions":350},"carebara-diversa","Carebara diversa","Carebara",[],"Une maraudeuse en raid, dont les colonnes de minuscules ouvrières et de majors à tête géante ressemblent à celles des fourmis légionnaires, les plus petites ouvrières voyageant sur le dos des plus grandes.","https:\u002F\u002Fcdn.brumaants.com\u002Fimages\u002Fspecies\u002Fcarebara-diversa.jpg","7",[256,51],[346,307],19,[236,237],"large","facultative",[311],[352,359,366],{"id":353,"title":354,"description":355,"image":356,"categoryText":357,"path":358},"blog\u002Ffr\u002Fhow-to-make-a-ytong-nest.md","Comment fabriquer un nid en Ytong - Tutoriel fourmis","Dans ce tutoriel, apprenez à fabriquer un nid en Ytong pour vos colonies de fourmis ! C'est l'un des meilleurs types de nids pour de nombreuses espèces !","https:\u002F\u002Fcdn.brumaants.com\u002Fimages\u002Fbruma_ants_thumbnail_ytong_ant_nest_tutorial.png","Tutoriels","\u002Ffr\u002Fhow-to-make-a-ytong-nest",{"id":360,"title":361,"description":362,"image":363,"categoryText":364,"path":365},"blog\u002Ffr\u002Fis-sugar-bad-for-ants-the-ant-pod.md","Le sucre est-il mauvais pour les fourmis ? - The Ant Pod","Trop de sucre nuit-il à une colonie ? Jake et Lynn comparent leurs colonies de Camponotus et expliquent pourquoi moins de sucre et plus de protéines vaut mieux.","https:\u002F\u002Fcdn.brumaants.com\u002Fimages\u002Fthe_ant_pod_is_sugar_bad_for_ants.jpg","Podcasts","\u002Ffr\u002Fis-sugar-bad-for-ants-the-ant-pod",{"id":367,"title":368,"description":369,"image":370,"categoryText":364,"path":371},"blog\u002Ffr\u002Fthe-best-conditions-to-keep-ants-the-ant-pod.md","Les meilleures conditions pour les fourmis - The Ant Pod","Température, humidité, nuisibles : tapis chauffants, systèmes d'hydratation, lutte contre les acariens, et pourquoi imiter l'habitat naturel de chaque espèce.","https:\u002F\u002Fcdn.brumaants.com\u002Fimages\u002Fthe_ant_pod_30_the_best_conditions_to_keep_ants.jpg","\u002Ffr\u002Fthe-best-conditions-to-keep-ants-the-ant-pod",1791900246736]